The big trip!!! Part 3 Florence and Paris

Part 1

Part 2

Thursday 27th July

The ferry from Patras arrived into dock at Bari late: 10am rather than 9.30am, that didn't bother us as we had plenty of time to make our train to Florence. We took a taxi into Bari and had breakfast.  Then M went off to buy us food for later and we waited for the train. 

The journey up to Florence was going to be one six-hour train ride straight through. Knowing this, we had gone for a slightly upgraded experience and chosen to travel Primo (which is essentially business class). It wasn't a big difference in money, but for 6hrs it was a lot more space, and a lot of complimentary snacks and drinks.

We had to wait a while for the train to be cleaned and made ready as Bari was the starting station. But it was nice to think that once we were sat in our assigned seats, that was it for the day - just read, snack, and watch the world go by.

We arrived at Florence Station but there was some big politician was arriving so the place was chaos and all the taxis were getting checked before being allowed to take passengers. We were stood behind the most breathtakingly stylish family, like easy stylish, kids were stylish, the dad was stylish. You know if it's just the Mum that it's possibly a front, but these guys were the real deal. No picture, you just have to imagine the most effortlessly stylish family (kids primary school age, boy and girl) possible. Anyway, that was a diversion for Woo and I, particularly for this last leg of the trip - pointing out outfits we liked as subtly as possible to each other.  

Eventually we got a cheery Italian taxi driver who took us to our airBnB. We had chosen it for the view of the Arno.... 

Woo does an excellent Lucy impression. But I suppose as is appropriate to Lucy's reaction when she opens the shutters, our view was a little disappointing, as the gardens between us and the Arno (property advertised as having garden view and river view) was now consumed with a construction site. Fortunately, we didn't suffer any noise from the construction site, though it may have been missed over the industrial whirr of the A/C units 😄 which were pretty loud. Even more fortunately we didn't end up needing the AC units during the night, with night temperatures dropping to about 15/17deg it was positively delightful.

The girls settled in to their room, while M and I went for a walk up the hill behind our flat

(Our building was just to the right of the clad tower)

My friend S had sent a picture of her at this spot and suggested we find it during our stay. I hadn't realised how close to it we were. We arrived to find it crammed as the sun went down. It was a lovely atmosphere though a bit crazy. As the sun dipped below the horizon, a large cheer went up from the crowd.

(Having found S's spot though not able to get close to the rail).

There was an amazing group of dancers. It was nice to linger and just take it all in in no rush.

We came back to see the girls and then went to the bar below our building for a very fancy and expensive couple of cocktails. We were also served some weird cheese covered lettuce and very hard crackers / draughts pieces. 

Friday 28th July 

Morning view:

I had booked us timed tickets for the Uffuzi (and the Academy later in the week). They were for 9am, so we were up fairly early and off to walk into the center. It took maybe 20minutes and was a lovely stroll.

We arrived at the Uffizi gallery and I waited in line to pick up our tickets while the girls and M had look around. 

There was a bit of difficulty as I hadn't brought ID for the girls (to prove they were under 18 for the reduced tickets). But eventually we got it sorted and went in.

We enjoyed going around once we were out of the crowded lower rooms. I did enjoy the Christian art up close. So much gold! When you really start getting up close and wondering what the artist was trying to convey with some of the expressions (bored, miffed, surprised etc.) There are some great expressions...like the dude below who is clearly exhausted having to look after the baby...

This lady is not happy...

And the guys at the back have just realised they were supposed to bring presents..."why did no-one tell us!?!"

We also enjoyed the long galleries with the sculptures, there were places to sit and draw which is something we are all into.

Faith:

Justice:

The place has some big hitter art works, but these can be crowded several rows deep....

Bit more drawing:

Bunnykins drawing:

Funny little people:

As we came out, we bumped into that pesky politician again.

We stopped for a bit more drawing and a sit down:

It was soo nice to be not sweating like crazy

We went off to find some lunch and on the way had a browse of a paper shop and miniatures shop.

The food in Florence is delicious as standard, and this place was well rated. It was a fantastic lunch. We were chatting to the waiter who was keen to move to the UK, he'd lived in Manchester a while and wanted to go back. Only thing making the decision difficult...the food!

We went back to the jewelry/miniature shop. Woo and I both got enameled rings which were just lovely. Mine had a branch with flowers that wove around the finger. Woo picked "Mittens" who is a little white cat.

We then went to queue up to get in the Duomo.

Mittens:

The Duomo is an impressive sight from almost any spot in Florence. It is huge and seems completely out of scale. The external design of the building is beautiful. The internal can seem a let down (particularly after a long wait). The inside of the dome is incredible. Many years back when M and I first came to Florence (where he proposed), we did climb up and see the dome up close. It was terifying, so I had no need of doing it again. We were done with the Duomo fairly rapidly...

We walked back to the flat.

Then had a bit of chill out time (not as much as previously in all the heat).

Bunnykins didn't want to go out for dinner, so 3 of us went out to a very local place. 

I had a typical Florentine desert, which was Biscotti dipped in a liqueur.  (Notice my lovely new ring)

Saturday 29th July 

M's run

We all got ready to go out, then M and Woo had a short walk.  As Bunnykins needed a moment. 

We all walked to Santa Croce, the church in room with a view. On the way I developed a migraine, so M nipped off to a pharmacy to get some painkillers which turned out to be pretty darn good. My migraines don't have super bad headaches, but I get the light aura and then for the rest of the day my head feels like a rattling tin. My head really didn't rattle too much which was great.

We wanted to find the Giotto fat man (from Room with a View) but the chapel closed for restoration.

There is so much to see in the Basilica Santa Croce, which felt in contrast to the Duomo. There is also a peaceful cloister. We took a sit to draw.

Love the photo below of Bunnykins 

And then I remembered there were photos of M and I in the same place, when we had visited before:

We bought pastries and panini and went back to the flat for lunch. 

In the afternoon we walked to the Gardens di Boboli. This was a big difference for Florence...the afternoons were cool enough that we could go out.

It was still plenty hot, but not so much so that you couldn't leave the room after 2pm.

We were trying to find the bench where M proposed. We thought we had, but checking an old photo back home:

We hadn't got it right....

M and bunnykins did more sketching then walked back with an ice cream. 

(Morrice very proud back at the flat)

Woo and I went to the Pitti Palace. There was an extraordinary amount of art, it was overwhelming. We could have spent hours in just one room and there were hundreds of rooms. The ceilings would spoil all future ceilings for life...

We had tea out nearby, Woo really liked the guacamole and tofu things and she normally never likes tofu when we cook it. We took some back from Bunnykins. 

Sunday

We got up a little later, a small lie in being nice, then walked to the Academie.

There was a detailed queuing system, but it was fairly straightforward with our timed ticket.

Once inside, the big draw was the David...

But I also really liked this gallery of sculpture casts, primarily used historically for practicing drawing. 

So I did a bit of drawing myself

After that, we set off to find lunch

We found (after a bit of searching) a really good vegetarian restaurant called brak. It also happened to be a bookshop, so it was a double win for Bunnykins. 

We went back to the flat for a siesta. M went out to the shops, where he was faced with what could only be described as: "Italian problems" ...too much pasta choice

We nipped out for a quick tea and then raced up the hill for sunset.

M had bought ice creams during his earlier shopping trip which were very welcome as we found a spot stood on a bench to see the view.

The sunset was pretty nice as the orb disappeared below the horizon. We started to wander across the square, just enjoying the atmosphere of the warm evening. 

But as we got to the top of the slope where it meets the piazza, we realised the sunset wasn't over yet. The last of the sunlight was catching the clouds and it was only getting more and more spectacular.

The busker behind us was playing La Vie en Rose, and it was just so beautiful. This became my new happy place, I was breathing it in, trying to hold all the details.

I love this photo: the girls dancing under the moon, with the clouds lit up pink and orange, the busker playing la vie en rose...

Monday 31st July

We were up at 6.30am, got ready and caught a taxi to the station. We didn't have too many early mornings for travel, but this was going to be a long day. Sadly it also started with a migraine for me.

Our first train was to Milan, in business class. It was very nice, lots of space. We got a box of snacks and a hot water/coffee.

Then we changed onto a train to Basel. Just over Bunnykins shoulder was a pair of absolute tools. German tools. There was a big guy who thought himself to be Thor's ball-sac, guffawing and yelling and swigging down his ale.  With a little side kick who laughed along but was noticeably quiet or avoidant when anyone challenged him with a look.  The big guy harassed a couple off young women going past asking them to touch what was likely his least impressive part. Then they spilt beer all over the seats.  I was poised for the whole 4hrs. I wanted the excuse to go the whole middle aged lady on them: fetching the train manager and getting them thrown of the train.  I thought my moment had come when they took cigarettes and the scrawny one made to light it on the train.  I leapt up.  But they were just waiting to get off  at the next station to smoke for 2 minutes.  They got thrown off the train at Basel.  Which I enjoyed. 

The views from the Basel train were incredible as we went through the alps...though I don't look very impressed...

Our final train was to Paris Gare du Lyon. We had a seat on the upper deck.

Rain!

We arrived in a rainy Paris with some chaos getting a taxi but made it to the flat about 8.30pm. After settling in, we watched the 1st episode of Good Omens 2.

Tuesday 1st August 

M went off for a run

I got up and had a shower, then waited (30 mins) for the hob kettle to boil some hot water for a drink. 

M brought back pastries for our breakfast. Then as the weather was forecast to be OK that morning, we set out for a walk to see some of the sights.

Hadōken!....

We stopped for lunch in a very Parisian café:

Then walked on to the Eiffel Tower.

Then after a good lot of walking about, we went to d'Orsay art gallery.

We spent a long time on "Ou est le chat?". There was a great picture of a cat on the museum plan that the girls loved, we searched and searched for this flipping cat. Then eventually I asked one of the helpers and they told me it was on loan in Australia 😄🐈.

The top floor has the most amazing collection of impressionists.  It was very crowded.  Woo kept hold of Bunnykins' hand and it was lovely to see them walking around together as Bunnykins not good with   crowds.   At Vincent van Gough's starry night she got a  bit overwhelmed and sped off causing a bit of a 3 person search party.  But we get used to that 😊😍. 

My fave:

Having a sit down on a bench and drawing was a welcome break as we had done a lot of walking.

Woo loved all the art Nuveo stuff

More rain!

We were rushing back, but then realised we had no need to hurry, so had a pitstop at a café for tart Tatin and cheesecake.

We walked rest of way back and I got to use my raincoat for the first time in the trip!. 

M  went out for to get us burgers and chips and cake.  Then we watched some more good omens 2. 

Wednesday  2nd august

M went for a run up to Monmatre and the Sacre Cour

It was very wet.  He came back with pastries for breakfast.  We were heading to the Orangery and wanted to get there for it opening. There was a subway station just outside the door of our building. Woo and I chose to take the tube, but given it was rush hour, Bunnykins and M chose to walk.

Woo being thrilled to be at the front of the automatic train where she could "drive" using the controls 😀

Woo and I were there first and got in the queue, but M and Bunnykins weren't far behind us.

We were in as soon as it opened and went to see the waterlily paintings by Monet. These are housed in 2 beautiful purpose build rooms.

The downstairs of the gallery also has some lovely works.

Bunnykins found a picture by Renoir that was a favourite. Known to us as the "picture of the little boy".

Spot of lunch, the music here was quite a dance mix including some French pop. I had started compiling a trip playlist (tango from Venice. In Kea - Mama Mia. From Patras, lots of 2010 pop hits. Then in Florence the busking classics, and sophisticated music from the cafes), quite a few from this café went on.

Then we walked to the Pompidou center which is the big modern art gallery for Paris. It has great views from it's external escalators. And has a wonderful relaxed feel to it. 

Though I'm not so relaxed with the heights...

We started on the 6th floor with a temporary exhibition about Norman foster the architect. I was fascinated by all the models.

What is this guy up to?!

(I have been spotted I think...)

5th floor... 

I had challenged the girls to find a work by a female artist when we were in the Orsay. They had managed it (and won a bar of chocolate), in the Pompidou - they found the challenge much easier.

Loves a bit of Chagall...

The 4th floor is more modern and was where I started to flag from a bit of an art overload.

Though I loved this room you could go in...a little art cave

We went down to the cafe for some energy giving cake and tea.

Where I realised the tea was from my favourite brand Mariage Freres, and that their Paris store wasn't far away. We paid it a visit, then walked back to the flat.

Thunder was rumbling all through our last evening. We ate tea in the flat then watched more good omens.  Woo was not feeling well just before bed and Bunnykins phone looked like it had a fatal error. The thunder rumbled on....

Thursday 3rd August.

We woke up needing to be away to catch our Eurostar train at 12:13. So it wasn't a great rush, but as I came out to the kitchen/sitting room I found Woo asleep on the sofa bed (which we had left out as it fitted us better for watching telly). She had been really hot during the night and so had moved out of her bed. She was doing ok ish in the morning and ate breakfast, but Woo, Bunnykins, and I decided to travel with masks on and we all kept away from others as much as possible.  

Back in London we got across to Paddington and waited for our booked train.

We were back in Bristol by 16:31, when we got a taxi home.

And that was it, all done! 

It felt good to be home. I had missed my comfortable bed and my parlour, and the green of the park and the garden. But I was also sad that it was over. I had a wonderful time. I felt very happy, and I loved the company of my TeamChallis. So now to plan the next one 😊....